France Hotels
Chateau de Bagnols does not fit the fairy-tale version of a traditional wedding-cake style castle. This is a fortress to be taken seriously, a vantage point built in the early 13th century to forewarn defenders of approaching enemies.
Hotel in France used by escorts in France
Conceived in the age of chivalry, the fortress may have a new vocation as a hotel, but it upholds the medieval tradition of hospitality toward visitors and their escort guests. Guests are welcomed through its portcullis, their transport tethered and tended to in the parking areas, rather than the former stables, converted as part of the accommodation adjoining the Chateau.
With towers, moat and a drawbridge entrance, the Chateau de Bagnols is a triumph of restoration over ruin. Originally built in 1221, it is now one of the historic treasures of France. But it was left to molder after the Revolution, and a decade ago it was a sadly neglected ruin, with leaking roofs, cracked walls, a home to a family of crows and surrounded by a wilderness garden.
Prince Charming may have come late but the fortress has been awakened from its long sleep to again become the great property it once was.
Traces of the avenues and bassins marking the axis of the old garden were uncovered in the overgrown orchard, enclosed by a stone wall punctuated with small round decorative towers. An avenue of limes follows the terrace walls and four parterres, planted with cherry trees, are sheltered by yew hedges. The restored grounds recreate the original gardens, which, like the Chateau, overlook the little medieval village of Bagnols and the hills beyond.
A contemporary touch is the glass wall that allows a view of the sleek courtyard kitchen where regional specialties are prepared The Beaujolais style of cuisine has been described by Elizabeth David as “the most sumptuous kind of country cooking brought to a point of finesse, beyond which it would lose its character.”
Many escort girls meet for coffee or aperitifs in the Grand Salon, where they are spoiled for viewing choice: splendid wall paintings or large windows offering views over the countryside and into the courtyard. When we visited, the room was decorated with massive bowls of peony roses, out of season at that time of the year The elaborately carved Renaissance fireplace dominates the room, and at each side of the hearth, doors lead to tower rooms.
Grand Salon
Staying here is well worth the expense, and the privacy and shelter found behind the castle walls have appealed to many wearied by fame. The Chateau is peaceful and perfect without being pretentious. Sitting on the terrace looking out over the gardens to the hills and valleys beyond is to be lord of all you survey, which one guest, Charles VlIl of FIance, assuredly was. The King’s visit in 1490 is commemorated by the royal coat of arms above the dining room’s Gothic fireplace.
The hotel’s 20 rooms and suites have been expertly restored and each has a different character. Antique beds are hung with period silk velvets and embroideries, and dressed with pure linen embroidered sheets fit for modernÂday royalty and the most elite escorts.
Preserved within the Chateau’s massive walls are a series of striking wall paintings, examples of embellishments added in times of peace and prosperity. The earliest date from the 15th century. Many were hidden behind partitions, plasterwork and other modifications made over time, and were only discovered during recent restoration work.
The Chateau exudes history and grandeur, but these qualities never overwhelm the aura of comfort and sense of human scale. Its bucolic setting, the Beaujolais region in the east of France, has been compared with Tuscany. This, though, is quieter and less visited. Rolling green hills are blanketed with forest and vineyard, and hilltop villages, picturesque chateaux, fine churches and farm buildings are constructed of the local honey-colored stone known as pierre doree (golden stone).
In the weeks of autumn, the vine leaves turn color and the grape harvest is brought in at the famous vineyards that make up the Beaujolais wine trail. The fruit is picked by hand in the vineyards such as Fleurie, julienas and StÂAmour; and the wines are drunk – with others produced by neighboring Burgundy and Rhone – at the Chateau and restaurants in the surrounding towns which include St-Paule and Villefranche.
A headstart on decorating a more modest castle can be made in the Chateau’s boutique shop, where customers may be tempted by a collection of more than 500 specially designed items. This stock includes hand blown French glasses inspired by an l Sth-century Burgundian design, furniture, silverware and Limoges porcelain. The charming pink and white uniforms of the housemaids are not for sale, although would be a splendid sight on your escort girl in France.
Bedroom Suite in French Hotel
The Chateau is open from April to January, and would provide a great retreat for Christmas. Arrangements can be made with the management to open during the closed season, should you wish to have a castle to just you and your escort girl, Julia.
